Nothing Fancy

September 30, 2019
Roman is an Instagram star who writes for the New York Times and Bon Appétit, and in this cheeky, entertaining primer, her tone sometimes verges on the frantic: she's fond of writing in all caps, making ironic pronouncements ("I'm just going to live my truth"), and incorporating internet lingo ("Thank you for coming to my TED Talk"). There are clever turns of phrase (escarole is a "gateway chicory"; seasoning chicken in advance is "a casual brine"), but sometimes the prose loops the loop so many times that it becomes tautological, as when she declares that martinis shouldn't be considered "extremely and exclusively fancy." (Why? Because she 'says so.) The language in the instructions themselves is not exactly Escoffier-worthy: "Knock yourself out with your decorative prowess" when scoring eggplant for roast, and spread yogurt on leg of lamb "as if you were applying a mud mask." On the practical side, each recipe includes instructions for preparing ahead, and mostly simple desserts include a double-crust "galette" with sour cherries and tahini, and a turmeric-tinted loaf cake. Aimed at millennials, the recipes here are fun and enticing.

January 1, 2020

New York Times food columnist and Instagram star Roman, perhaps best known for her viral salted chocolate chunk shortbread cookie recipe, delivers a fun and practical twist on "having people over" (don't call it entertaining). Roman provides readers with simple and attainable recipes perfect for casual social occasions, from a DIY Martini Bar and a "not-crudite" platter to easy roast meats and lemony turmeric tea cake. Although there are some vegetarian, vegan, and "accidentally" gluten-free offerings, Roman makes room for dishes with butter, cheese, and tinned fish as well. Many recipes contain ingenious culinary nuggets: the "reverse sear" for slow-cooked cuts of meat, or roasted butternut squash with the seeds left in for extra crunch and a toasty flavor. Roman's trademark wit shines through in breezy, opinionated asides ("a formal apology to leeks"), while stylish photography and a refreshing design lend an up-to-the-minute feel to a cookbook with all the makings of a contemporary classic. VERDICT If Roman's wildly popular first cookbook, Dining In, is any indication, this title will be in high demand; recommended as a first purchase.--Kelsy Peterson, Forest Hill Coll., Melbourne, Australia

Copyright 2020 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

Starred review from October 1, 2019
New York Times cooking columnist Roman (Dining In, 2017) clarifies at the start that this isn't an "entertaining" cookbook but a guide to "just making dinner, but, you know, with more people." Narrative spreads on topics like the perfect cheese plate ("my only word of advice is: Please relax") and her love for humble foods like anchovies, beans, and steamed broccoli break up the 100-plus inventive, free-form recipes, which cover snacks, salads, sides, mains (meat, fish, and veg), and dessert and emphasize seasonal, well-balanced flavors (think salt-fat-acid). Some examples: crushed peas with burrata and olives, one-pot chicken with dates and caramelized lemon. The one-to-two page recipes generally serve 4-8 diners, and many include notes for working ahead and pairing dishes. Where cooks might need a boost (cooking a whole fish, carving a chicken), Roman provides motivating instruction. The author's informal, funny voice comes across strongly, making her notes a real pleasure to read, and her theme?see note above about relaxing?carries the collection through to a reminder about remaining calm, and maybe even having fun with the end-of-meal clean-up. Perhaps not a capital-E entertaining manual, but a fresh, downright-festive encouragement to make and enjoy good food with good people.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2019, American Library Association.)